Wandering the back country of Azerbaijan, time is frozen. Tradition clashes with a modern society now largely subsidized from the nationalized oil industry. If the lines in the faces of these villagers could speak, they would tell tales of major political transformations from communism to opportunism at the crossroad of East and West. In the small mountain villages, far from Baku, Azerbaijan's bustling capital, traditional craft making has defied globalization. A hat maker hand-makes sheep-skin head gear protection from the fierce winters, a skill learned from his father, and his grand-father before that. Nickel and copper craftsmen are unique to the region. Donkeys still provide decent transportation for local shepherds. But passing the torch to the new generation cannot compete with the fast life that oil wealth brings to the larger cities. It is tugging at the youth. With the aging demographic of these remote villages, culture is under threat. But the soul of the villagers remain unflappable.